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April 29, 2025

The technique behind scalp micropigmentation

It is a widespread misconception that SMP and tattooing are the same thing. Technically they resemble each other on the surface, but there are crucial differences in execution, equipment and depth.

How does scalp micropigmentation work technically? Learn about the skin layers, the precision of the needle, the pigment and what distinguishes SMP from an ordinary tattoo.

The technique behind scalp micropigmentation

Scalp micropigmentation, abbreviated SMP, is a precision technique that creates a visual illusion of hair stubble by pigmenting microscopic dots in the scalp. It sounds simple, but the result depends on an exact understanding of the anatomy of the skin layers, the right equipment and many hours of experience. Here is a walkthrough of what actually happens during an SMP treatment.

SMP is not a tattoo

It is a widespread misconception that SMP and tattooing are the same thing. Technically they resemble each other on the surface, but there are crucial differences in execution, equipment and depth.

A traditional tattoo places ink deep in the dermis, typically 1.5 to 2 mm below the skin surface, to ensure durability. SMP, on the other hand, is placed in the uppermost part of the dermis, only 0.5 to 1 mm deep. The more superficial placement gives a sharper, more natural appearance, but in turn requires greater precision and a special needle with a finer tip than those used for tattooing. The pigment used for SMP is also specially formulated to mimic the neutral, matte colour of shaved hair stubble.

The anatomy of the skin layers

To understand the precision required, it is useful to know the skin a little better. The skin basically consists of three layers.

Epidermis

The outermost layer. The epidermis renews itself approximately every 30 to 45 days. If pigment is placed here, it will disappear again very quickly as the uppermost skin cells are renewed.

Dermis

The dermis. This is where the SMP pigment is placed. The dermis consists of collagen fibres and is stable enough to hold the pigment for years, but superficial enough to give a sharp, detailed appearance. Too deep in the dermis, the pigment will spread and give a blurred or blue-toned result over time.

Subcutis

The deepest layer, which mainly consists of fat and connective tissue. SMP never touches this layer.

Depth is everything

The precise depth is the most critical element in an SMP treatment. Too superficial and the pigment disappears too quickly. Too deep and the pigment spreads and loses its sharpness, which can result in an unnatural and hard-to-correct result.

The depth also varies depending on the location on the head, because the skin thickness differs at the hairline, the temples, the crown and the neck. An experienced SMP practitioner continuously adjusts technique and depth throughout the session.

The pigment

SMP pigment is not the same as tattoo ink. It is formulated to match natural hair colours and to retain its colour in the upper dermis without migrating or turning blue. The pigment is individually tailored to each patient's hair colour and skin tone to ensure a natural match.

Over time the pigment fades gradually, typically over 4 to 6 years depending on skin type and sun exposure. A single touch-up session is usually sufficient to restore the result.

The treatment process

An SMP course at Pilorum typically consists of 2 to 3 sessions with 1 to 2 weeks between them. The first session lays the foundation and creates the overall appearance. In the subsequent sessions the density is built up, the nuances are fine-tuned and the result is anchored.

The final effect is fully visible 4 to 6 weeks after the last session, when the skin has healed and the pigment has settled.

Aftercare

For the first 4 days after a session, the treatment area should be kept dry. Avoid direct sunlight, swimming pools and intense physical activity that causes heavy sweating during this period. After this, care is minimal: keep the skin moisturised and use sunscreen during longer sun exposure to extend the durability of the pigment.

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